Kim Chung-young's Suwon Microscope (126) Hidden Scenic Beauty of Suwon Hwaseong: Silver Grass Fields Harmonizing with Fortress Walls

December 6 this year marks the 26th anniversary of Suwon Hwaseong's inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Since the UNESCO World Heritage inscription, Suwon City has spared no effort in restoring and maintaining fortress facilities and improving the poor environment surrounding the walls, resulting in significant changes in many areas.

The goal was not merely to showcase the fortress walls. Rather, it was to enhance Suwon's identity through Suwon Hwaseong and to build a prosperous city through this heritage.

It was not easy. Fulfilling the three elements of tourism—food, sights, and shopping—required investment of time, effort, and funds.

The beginning involved launching regular performances of the 24 Martial Arts Techniques (Muye Yisibsa) from the 'Muyedobotongji,' a work to which King Jeongjo devoted considerable interest and completed, starting in 2004. As the regular performances mark their 20th year, they have now established themselves as Suwon's signature cultural performance.

The second initiative was to create a scenic attraction by redeveloping deteriorated areas and planting silver grass fields in parks outside the fortress walls. The person who actively recommended this project was Professor Jeong Jae-hoon of the Traditional Culture School (former Director of the Cultural Heritage Management Bureau, former member of the Cultural Heritage Review Committee).

It is said that no trees were planted in front of the fortress walls. If trees grew around the fortress, they would become obstacles during warfare, making it difficult to observe the enemy.

Instead, silver grass was planted around the fortress walls. Silver grass was used as material for fire arrows and as roofing material for thatched houses. Its spring shoots served as edible greens and famine relief food. It was also used as medicinal material in traditional herbal medicine. At Professor Jeong Jae-hoon's recommendation, the silver grass flowers planted here became the finest scenic beauty of Suwon Hwaseong.

Food attractions were largely addressed as the Shinpung and Jangan districts transformed into a café street through the 'Suwon Eco-Mobility 2013' event. Shopping attractions are supported by the traditional market around Paldalmun Gate, which has a 230-year history, continuously drawing the footsteps of tourists and citizens.

Currently, silver grass flowers create a spectacular scene around Suwon Hwaseong.

Silver grass fields around Suwon Hwaseong are located outside the Dongnamgak Pavilion behind the Jidong Market and in the Yeonmudong area leading from behind Dongbuk Gongsim-dun to Yongyeon. The silver grass fields in the section extending from Hwaseo Gate to the Paldal Mountain hiking route also evoke admiration.

The silver grass field behind Dongbuk Gongsim-dun was created in 2006. If you park at the Yeonmudae parking lot and go to the Changryong Gate intersection, then turn toward the back of Dongbuk Gongsim-dun, you will see the silver grass field. When viewing the fortress walls and Dongbuk Gongsim-dun from below the silver grass field, the swaying silver grass flowers create a spectacular scene.

Walking along the fortress walls and passing Dongbuk Amun Gate, visitors encounter the silver grass field on the upper level of Yeonmu Parking Lot, created in 2017. Walking through the silver grass flower tunnel on both sides of the walking path allows visitors to be completely immersed in the beauty harmonizing with Suwon Hwaseong.

Continuing further, visitors encounter silver grass fields surrounding Yongyeon. Nowadays, young couples line up to take photos with silver grass flowers as their backdrop. It is said that in this world, the most inexhaustible sights are, first, watching people; second, watching water; and third, watching fire. Here, one can fully appreciate the autumn landscape without the third element.

Beyond Yongyeon is Hwahong Gate. Behind Hwahong Gate, a stone water serpent spouts water from its mouth.

Having the water from Yongyeon spout through the serpent's mouth was meant to convey that if the water serpent, which failed to become a dragon, would not be treacherous and would manage the water well, it would be ascended to heaven.

Crossing the stepping stones behind Hwahong Gate, visitors encounter the seven-span water channel of Hwahong Gate. Hwahong Gate means the rainbow gate, and our ancestors were also aware that rainbows have seven colors.

Continuing and walking 200-300 meters along the fortress wall toward the Younghwa area, Jangan Gate appears.

Jangan Gate, the main gate of Suwon Hwaseong, has suffered greatly. In the 1920s, during the Japanese colonial period, Japanese authorities demolished both sides under the pretext of building a road, making Jangan Gate an isolated island. During the Korean War in 1950, when North Korean troops took shelter inside Jangan Gate, UN forces dropped bombs, destroying the gate tower.

This was restored during the Hwaseong restoration project from 1975-1979. In 1995, Mayor Sim Jae-deok of the first directly elected administration built overhead pedestrian bridges on both severed sides to create a path circumnavigating the fortress. The construction of the steel bridge at this time was highly controversial.

During my tenure as director of the Hwaseong Project Office, the Cultural Heritage Administration granted time-limited approval on the condition that the steel bridge be removed. At that time, I thought we should seize this opportunity to connect Jangan Gate. After coordinating with members of the Hwaseong Research Society and experts to study the matter, the solution we discovered was what exists now—connecting the western portion and linking the eastern side with a bridge. In this way, citizens were able to pass through Jangan Gate.

Beyond Jangan Gate is Jangan Park. This is a park I participated in creating upon receiving my first assignment as a civil servant. In 1979, thinking that large trees would obscure the fortress walls, we planted small, slender trees, which after 44 years have grown into large trees. Jangan Park has become a beloved destination for citizens.

Beyond Jangan Park are the Northwest Gongsim-dun and Hwaseo Gate, among the few original structures among Hwaseong facilities. The Northwest Gongsim-dun was not in the original design but was built on King Jeongjo's orders. King Jeongjo took great pride in the Northwest Gongsim-dun, which was created according to his own conception.

Proceeding toward Paldal Mountain and crossing the street, a marker stone reading "Hwaseo Park" appears. This marker stone was erected in 2004 at my suggestion. The parks surrounding Hwaseong are designated as Paldal Park to the west and East Park to the east, with Jangan Gate as the dividing point. However, the park outside the walls created during the 1975-1979 Hwaseong restoration project was named Jangan Park. Many people use Jangan Park as a meeting point.

It seemed awkward to call the park created after the Seomun Apartment demolition either Paldal Park or Jangan Park. Therefore, I decided to use Hwaseo Park as an alternative name to indicate the place's identity.

Ascending Hwaseo Park, silver grass fields extend along the fortress walls. This is the origin of the silver grass fields at Suwon Hwaseong.

In 2007, a female student lost her mobile phone in the silver grass field. Unable to find it, thinking that burning the grass would make it more visible, she set a fire. What happened next is left to imagination.

As autumn deepens, I recommend walking through the silver grass fields outside the fortress walls before it becomes too late.